(photo courtesy of Descanso)

Already a paradise of tender al pastor, juicy birria and nearly every Mexican dish under the sun, Los Angeles became all the more so in January 2025 when Descanso Restaurant opened in the Miracle Mile. The expansive, modern taqueria balances the fire-roasted flavors of Michoacán with a lively environment that’s perfect for margaritas with friends old and new.

Founder and owner Rob Arellano opened the second location at 5773 Wilshire Blvd. after finding success with Descanso in Costa Mesa. For Arellano, a lifelong passion for the tapestry of beloved flavors across Mexico inspired Descanso.

“It truly does start from childhood. I fell in love with the cuisine of the many different regions of Mexico through travels with my family,” Arellano said. “My father was a first generation Mexican immigrant. I had a lot of family and uncles that are spread out throughout Mexico.”

Early memories of road trips down the coast of the Baja Peninsula and expeditions through the mainland are anchored by unforgettable culinary experiences that he wanted to translate into an elevated setting, Arellano said. But it wasn’t just about the food. He said Descanso aims to bring the full sensory experience of Mexico to the table – the sounds of a cumbia band, the smell of a sizzling plancha grill and the vibrant colors of a serape.

To execute his vision, Arellano homed in on one region: Michoacán. The coastal state in central Mexico is aptly referred to as “the soul of Mexico” and the cuisine actually mirrors America’s own soul food: slow cooking methods, rich stews and an omnipresent smokiness.

“Probably the most profound and unique aspect from that area is the smoky aspect. Our morita chile, which is essentially a grilled, smoky jalapeno, has that real rich smoky flavor that I just love. We implement that into a lot of our foods and also play around with that at the bar through mezcals,” Arellano said.

The signature smoke takes center stage in dishes like the relleno taco, a roasted Anaheim chile stuffed with tatuma squash, corn, sweet peppers, salsa verde, onion and a hearty layer of tres quesos oozing over the top like lava from one of Michoacan’s many active volcanos.

In cocktails like the Brezo Dulce, Banhez Espadin Barril Mezcal brings just a subtle hint of smoke to a drink that’s full of color and candy-like sweetness from fresh berries and honey. The bar offers beverages for every type of drinker, with rare agave spirits, a full wine list, curated cocktails and six different riffs on the margarita made with fresh fruits. Arellano explained that the restaurant prides itself on making everything from scratch using only fresh ingredients – from every house-made syrup and garnish behind the bar to the wide array of sauces and marinades in the kitchen.

The menu at Descanso, much like the airy dining room, is extensive and filled with plentiful options. You can’t go wrong with any of the dozen tacos, a bountiful harvest from land and sea wrapped in warm blankets of handmade tortillas. The birria utilizes exceptionally tender short rib for a take on a classic that’s sure to satisfy, while the Volcano combines ranchero steak with agave glazed shrimp for a bold and spicy finish.

The list of entrées features tried-and-true Mexican staples like carne asada and comforting dishes like the short rib estofado – a rich and creamy plate of stewed beef, guajillo pinto bean jus and avocado with hints of brightness from spring onion, radish, serrano pepper and micro cilantro. Each dish at Descanso is beautifully garnished and clearly takes inspiration from the vivid colors of Mexico – another nod to the sensory experience that Arellano sought to replicate.

Perhaps the most unique element of Descanso is plancha dining, where diners sit communally around a large flat-top grill one might find at a taco stand. Similar to Japanese Teppanyaki, the chef prepares everything directly in front of the guests, making for an energetic outing with just enough heat, sizzle and flames to be perfect for birthdays, anniversaries and special occasions.

“We really drive you through the culinary experience. Where else can you [go] where a chef sits there and tells you where the ingredients are from, why we use the ingredients, the inspiration behind it, the stories behind it?” Arellano said. “You really get a culinary journey.”

There’s even a plancha privada private dining room for up to 10 people with a specially curated menu with Descanso’s top chef.

With bold Mexican flavors and a convivial setting, Descanso might just be the closest you can get to taking a culinary road trip through Michoacán without leaving Los Angeles.

Descanso Restaurant is located at 5773 Wilshire Blvd. Visit descansorestaurantla.com.

Elote Asado (photo courtesy of Descanso)