The queso fundido al fuego comes replete with actual flames. (photo by Rance Collins)

The Hideaway lives up to its name. You can’t see it from Rodeo Drive, because it is – indeed – hidden away inside a complex on the street, situated on the bottom floor of a courtyard inside its own separate bungalow. Boyfriend and I had the last possible reservation, because we’re night people who stay up too late and run on coffee fumes.

The benefit to closing down a restaurant like The Hideaway is that you get to fully take in its vibe – and it is quite a vibe, as indicated by the hot pink neon sign that welcomes guests. It’s outfitted with a cross-section of traditional Mexican décor, dusty pastels, wrought iron furniture and stucco walls, all seemingly illuminated by a soft candlelit glow. There are several different dining areas, some more formal than others, and each is situated in various rooms within an involving, maze-like layout. We were seated next to a lovely fireplace under a glass roof, above which could be seen strings of lights. Our room’s vibe was strictly relaxed.

It all makes for an Instagrammer’s dream … and there was a table of aspiring influencers next to us who did not miss one potential viral moment. But I’m of the opinion that, when dining at a place literally called The Hideaway, putting the phone away is part of the appeal. The sum total of the carefully crafted atmosphere is that – for an hour or two – you get to be somewhere else. Why spoil it with a notification?

The menu is what our (excellent) server Kara described as Baja California – a Mexican steak place with a vast number of options, essentially.

I’m not typically one for raw fish, but the Hamachi sashimi starter might’ve changed my mind. A dish that is crafted with soy, honey vinaigrette and pickled Fresno chile, it had a delicate, tart flavor. I ate what I could of this starter –  Boyfriend had devoured most of it by the time I had turned my attention away from the chips and salsa.

You see, as a Texas-raised, TexMex loving boy, I grew up with what I consider to be Grade A-chips and salsa on the regular. It is, I believe, the true marker of a great Mexican-themed establishment. The chip basket is refilled constantly, almost imperceptibly, they are house-made, and, importantly, the salsa has a kick without being overwhelming. The Hideaway has the best chips and salsa in Los Angeles, and I will die on that hill.

Salt, lime and lemon were all placed at the table, which Kara told us were to be used at our own digression with whatever drink or dish we wanted to use them. Every part of the meal – appetizers included – comes with tortillas, choice of flour or corn (I tried both, and both were unsurprisingly perfect). I really enjoyed pairing the tortillas with the queso fundido al fuego, made with Oaxan and Chihuahua cheese, and literally flamed with tequila and rum. And I do mean *literally* flamed. It was brought out by one of the chefs and set ablaze at the table. Adding it to a tortilla (once the fire is out, of course) was like making your own quesadilla.

We ordered two drinks, and I should note that they make each of their cocktails both with- and without alcohol, depending on your spirit tolerance. The strawberry margarita was appropriately refreshing and fruity. The flavorful – might I say juicy – One Night in Tulum is the highlight, though – and not just because of its taste. It comes in a mule cup, and Kara insisted that we name it. Boyfriend dubbed her “Sylvia,” which Kara said was the best name she’d ever gotten – but she might have just been flattering us. Regardless, Sylvia observed the rest of our meal patiently.

For the main course, we split a New York wagyu, which at 16-ounces was more than enough for both of us – and mind you, we both set out to eat our weight in protein daily. Kara sliced the steak at the table, and I wrapped mine up in tortillas – delicious. Multiple sauces were at our disposal, but as Boyfriend always says, “When the meat is quality, you don’t need anything else on it.” And boy, was this quality beef.

Boyfriend’s birthday is Feb. 20 – the day this is published – and The Hideaway made sure to kick off the celebration for us. Churros – alongside chocolate and strawberry dips – were delivered to the table with a massive sparkler candle. It was the perfect way to ring in his 13th 25th birthday.

While the glow of a winter evening made for a beautiful backdrop, I imagine that the sunlight of a weekend morning also makes it the perfect locale for brunch – and the menu’s steak and eggs, French toast, and a churro sticky bun all would make for great breaking fast options. We have only cracked the surface of the restaurant, truly, as the menu contains numerous varieties of steak, fish, lamb, chicken and vegan mushrooms. The combinations are endless.

But it is really the informal, yet polished, elements that make the visit worthwhile. When you pair magnificent food with amazing service and a superb vibe … well, you really can’t go wrong.

The Hideaway Beverly Hills is located at 421 N. Rodeo Drive (remember, wander into the courtyard to find it). For information, visit thehidewaybeverlyhills.com or call (310)974-8020.

A sparkler helped bring celebratory flavor to Boyfriend’s birthday churro. (photo by Rance Collins)