The salmon is covered with everything bagel spices and seeds for a delightful crunch and flavor. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

The Royce Wood-fired Steakhouse at the historic Langham Hotel served one of the best steak dinners I’ve had in recent memory. Over the years some of my favorite chefs including Craig Strong, Michael Voltaggio and David Féau have curated menus and shown off their skills in the kitchen at the stately hotel.

Now chef de cuisine Jorge Delgado and his team add their personal touch and talents in preparing some of the finest selection of prime cuts, Australian Wagyu and grass-fed beef. An Aztec wood-fired grill burns white oak and seasonal wood to create some of the most flavorful meats and vegetables.

With the Aspen Ridge Farm Black Angus filet mignon, Delgado offers choice of sauces to heighten the flavors. The Bordelaise is made with two-day veal stock with a red wine reduction. He also offers a Tabasco Bernaise or a green tinged bone marrow chimichurri sauce. The Stilton blue cheese fondue was my husband’s favorite sauce to swirl around the tender red meat. Royce makes their own steak sauce and horseradish cream.

Boosters can be added to your steak that include shaved truffles, and a whole lobster for a surf and turf dining experience.

The elegant interior is designed showcasing modern glass-enclosed and temperature-controlled red and white wine rooms. This area stores most of the restaurants 3,000 Old World and New World bottles, plus diners can reserve a wine room for a romantic dinner. Small groups can reserve this area in the restaurant to enjoy special wine tastings or a private celebratory dining experience.

We were seated at a window table overlooking the Horseshoe Garden. We looked over the menu, taking in the ambiance of soothing white with a touch of blue accent colors.

Our friendly and knowledgeable server Preston offered a few cocktail and wine recommendations to pair with the crab cakes and hamachi crudo we ordered.

What I liked about the crab cake was the luscious Leche de Tigre and Meyer lemon aioli sauce and petit radish salad. It was a nice balance of the essence of the sea with citrus and earthy flavors. Other starters include grilled Spanish octopus and roasted bone marrow served with grilled black olive bread.

The hamachi crudo was served with a Granny Smith apple and jalapeño relish for a touch of heat and sweetness. Chef adds espuma made from pickled cucumbers.

The Caesar salad with romaine leaves arrived topped with black olive croutons. The dressing was made with white Moroccan anchovies, shaved parmesan and cured egg yolk. Sliced figs scattered on the side provided a touch of sweetness.

The menu also offers a grilled wedge salad and a roasted golden beet salad with red beet spaghetti, herb goat cheese and grapefruit.

I ordered the pan seared Faroe Island salmon that was crusted with all the spices and seeds one appreciates on an everything bagel. The perfectly cooked fish was served on a bed of creamy avocado hummus. Next to it were grilled oyster mushrooms and heirloom tomatoes glistening lightly with a pleasing vinaigrette.

Side dishes include mac and cheese made with five different types of cheese and topped with brown butter breadcrumbs. For those who love fries, these are tossed in a small amount of duck fat and garlic and can also be enhanced with truffles.

Roasted wild mushrooms have a dash of herbs and aged Sherry vinegar, and the sautéed Brussels sprouts are served with frisée, bacon lardons and a 63° cooked egg.

There is an extensive list of red meat offerings from around the world, including Porterhouse Prime from Moyer Farm in Pennsylvania and a Wagyu Tomahawk steak from Icon Wagyu Farm in Tasmania.

Other proteins include a lemon crusted lamb loin with rainbow baby carrots and English pea ragout, or a Moroccan bone-in short rib for two people that is served with onion rings and pickled golden raisins.

Delgado visited our table and discussed his culinary journey. He shared of the fascination he had with food from an early age. His grandfather was a baker. He made burritos with his mother from scratch to sell. After graduating Le Cordon Bleu, he refined his culinary skills working in the kitchen at Roof on Wilshire with celebrity chef Eric Greenspan, and side-by-side with Patina Groups exceptional chefs including Jean Pierre at Kendall’s Brassiere and Sydney Hunter at Café Pinot. Most recently, he worked at Barton G with Chef Attila Pollok producing over-the-top celebratory dishes. Now at The Royce, he is sharing his knowledge with his team and creating some sensational starters, steaks and side dishes in a refined setting.

Save room for cinnamon beignets with a chocolate frangelico dipping sauce served with beautiful red rose petals on the plate, and a chocolate cake made with chocolate hazelnut gâteau, and candied nuts.

After dinner be sure to walk over America’s only covered picture bridge. It was built in 1932, and is one of the many charming features of this historic hotel. Restored in 2020, there are 41 replicas of oil paintings reflecting the beauty of California.

Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. $$$ 1401 South Oak Knoll Avenue, Pasadena, (626)568-3900.

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