
Desserts at The Den include a frozen caramelized banana, toffee, whipped cream and chocolate pie. (photo by Jill Weinlein)
After learning that The Den had completed its massive renovation last month, my husband and I decided to visit the stone-looking cabin along Sunset Boulevard. Not only is the space a lively dinner space with a full bar, it’s also a popular after work and late-night spot to hang out with friends.
We noticed a new fire pit featuring flickering light and warmth on the front patio. Strings of white lights hang above a strikingly beautiful green, black and white herringbone pattern floor that extends inside, creating a seamless indoor/outdoor experience.
The friendly host led us past the lively bar and down a few steps to one of the soft velvet booths with a white marble top table.
Owner had Brett Latteri dreamed of operating a restaurant and bar on Sunset Boulevard, and in 2009 opened The Den. Back then it was a popular spot for rock music fans, comedy club attendees and celebrities. Now, with upscale hotels and clubs opening on Sunset, Latteri wanted to maintain that electric energy his guests are accustomed to feeling, but determined it was time to renovate the bar by adding some elegant touches, artisan finishes and a new chef and bar menu. He gave The Den a new look with the help of artist and designer Nora Shields.
The inside is now cozier and more glamorous with dim lights, cushiony banquettes, tranquil wallpaper, an upgraded DJ booth, quaint fireplace, sheepskin throws, and an array of vintage books and records lining the walls.
We started with two of the new cocktails created by consultants Pascal Shin and Darwin Manahan of Punch & Company. I chose the Cross Pollinator made with Spirit Guild gin, Chaucer’s mead, chamomile tea, yuzu soda, fresh lemon juice, cardamom and honey. A dried citrus wheel as garnish is a decorative touch.
The Guava Island tastes like a tropical margarita in a tall glass. The pink cocktail is made with Tres Generaciones tequila, Chinola passion fruit, fresh lime juice and a touch of agave.
The bar menu also displays craft beers and a natural selection of wines. The beverage program was specifically designed to pair nicely with new executive chef Ronnie de Leon’s culinary fare.
Born in Makati City, Philippines, de Leon enjoyed watching her mother cook in the kitchen, creating delicious meals. After attending California Culinary Academy with a focus on culinary arts and baking and patisserie, she worked as a sous chef at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows and Maybourne Internationals. Now as the executive chef of The Den on Sunset, her new menu features satisfying comfort food, raw bar offerings, shared plates and larger entrées.
In the raw bar section, options include a hamachi crudo with sliced watermelon radish and blood orange, Mexican shrimp cocktail and seasonal oysters from both coasts.
Starters to share around the table include warm olives with fennel pollen, organic deviled eggs with pickled mustard seeds, and Kennebec potato chips with Kaluga caviar.
Under Market Picks, we ordered the mezze board that arrived with a bowl filled with a crudite of peppers, celery and carrots. There was smooth hummus, bright orange romesco, creamy white herbed labne with pickled onions, and warm and soft pita triangles. It’s an ideal dish to share around the table.
Under the seafood selection we chose the charred Spanish octopus on top of romesco and chimichurri, plus perfectly cooked small purple and yellow potatoes cut in half. Pickled pink onions and flash fried basil garnish the top of this dish and enhance the flavors.
One of the specials of the evening was a Nieman Ranch flat iron steak sandwich served on a delicious French baguette. It was enhanced with grilled onions and red peppers, and served with either a lightly dressed salad or rosemary fries. Other meat dishes on the menu include Grandma’s meatballs with Sunday gravy and ricotto salada; a buttermilk fried Mary’s Chicken sandwich with rosemary fries; and The Den Burger with melted smoked Gouda cheese. One can substitute the Nieman Ranch burger patty for the vegan Beyond Meat patty.
Desserts include brown butter chocolate chip cookies and a large slice of frozen Bannoffee pie. It’s a huge slice made with frozen caramelized bananas, whipped cream and toffee bits on a thick graham cracker crust. Cut into a large square, the top had a drizzle of chocolate sauce and toffee and banana crumble.
Latteri also volunteers his time as chairman of the Sunset Strip Business Improvement District. He is dedicated to ensuring that the Sunset Strip maintains its prestige by creating innovative ways to market the Sunset Strip. He collaborates with a diverse set of business owners and West Hollywood officials.
Come see the enhancements at The Den, a friendly new comfort food and drink destination along one of the most iconic areas in Los Angeles.
The Den roars to life every Tuesday through Friday starting at 5 p.m. to 10:15 p.m., and Saturdays from 3 p.m. to 10:15 p.m. The bar is open late Tuesday through Saturday. It’s closed Sunday and Monday. The Den has its own parking lot and valet service. $$ 8226 W. Sunset Blvd., (323)656-0336.
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