The tender filet is wrapped in a red wine-soaked cheesecloth and cooked over an open flame. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

The first time I dined at Rosaliné restaurant in West Hollywood was in 2017. I fondly remember chef Richardo Zarate sharing with me that he named the restaurant in honor of his late mother.

I recently returned to Rosaliné with a group of friends, toasting with a round of South American Pisco Sour cocktails. The traditional drink is made with Quebranta Pisco brandy mixed with freshly squeezed lime juice, simple syrup, whipped egg whites and a drizzle of Peruvian bitters, which had a dusting of cinnamon atop its white foam.

The decor by Los Angeles-based architect Kevin Tsai features white herringbone pattern flooring and tiled walls. Greenery hangs from the long skylight ceiling and mid-century wood tables and a scattering of bright red metal chairs to bring a pop of color into the room.

The menu, inspired by traditional dishes Zarate enjoyed eating while growing up in Peru, is divided into four sections. He creatively designed his menu starting with Abrebocas (small plates) to be shared around the table. One of the most visually exciting items is Causita Crocante – four crispy potato spheres nestled in a 16-ounce wooden Sea Star Seafoods Choice box. The pleasing slightly fish flavor is from salted cod that is topped with a pickled radish and wasabi dijon mustard sauce.

Another eye-catching starter is Zarate’s Peruvian Causa jar. Peruvian botija olive aioli is poured into a mason jar followed by layers of Peruvian yellow potato mousse, smooth green avocado and a beautiful, thick, brick red colored eggplant stew. The colorful consistency is similar to a budino or pudding and spreads smoothly on the thick slices of grilled quinoa bread that are brushed with oil.

We liked the bread so much that we ordered a round loaf of it. Additional spreads included a rocoto butter, a pepper known to be 20 times hotter than the average jalapeno, though I found this spread tolerable. There was also an aguaymanto jam, a native golden berry that is slightly sweet and popular in the Peruvian Andes. The botija olive spread had an earthy and slightly tart flavor.

Next up, we ordered a few salads and some dishes under the La Familia (larger portions) section. The arugula salad was topped with a beautifully baked butternut squash in a miso dressing. The aroma of cinnamon and nutmeg wafted around the table. On top of the orange squash was a goat cheese crumble, toasted pepitas and tiny quinoa pearls.

Crunchy cancha corn, a popular Peruvian large corn kernel snack similar to a corn nut, were on a plate of Channel Islands wild halibut ceviche. Crispy baby calamari, huacatay oil, sliced red onion and a aji amarillo leche de tigre sauce enhanced the flavors of this dish.

Three different types of Peruvian paellas arrived at our table. While scraping the slightly crispy Peruvian fried rice from the bottom of the hot black skillet, I scooped prawns with tails, bites of pancetta and pork La Chang Chinese sausage that had a delicious fermented seafood paste glaze.

The seafood chaufa paella was full of clams, white prawns, scallop, calamari and chopped cilantro. For the vegetarians in our group, their paella had king mushrooms, shimenji, roasted vegetables, cabernet tomatoes and a black mint aji sauce.

From the Mamaqucha (sea) section we enjoyed a large plate of whole grilled branzino with a black mint aji sauce and array of cut small acorn yellow squash. Another appealing looking dish was the grilled diver scallops topped with yuzu kosho, amarillo aioli and a sprinkling of crispy quinoa. In the center of the dish was a mound of arugula leaves and citrus sections fanned out to look like sun rays.

Last to arrive were two filet mignons. One was wrapped in a red wine-soaked cheesecloth and cooked over an open fire. The cheese cloth was removed and set aside so we could cut into the tender perfectly cooked beef served with a creamy black mint huacatay dipping sauce. The other is called lomo saltado, a 6-ounce sautéed filet mignon with large roasted heirloom tomato halves, braised cipollini onions and a sunny side egg on top.

We did not want the dinner to end, so we ordered the Rosaliné chancay con leche, a Peruvian cake soaked with deuce de leche goat’s milk blended with vanilla bean, sugar and coconut milk. It’s served with a scoop of Maracuya guava frozen yogurt with passion fruit seeds, slightly torched meringue and Harry’s berries.

I told Zarate that the meal prepared for my group of friends would have made Rosaline, his mother, so proud. $$$ 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (323)297-9500.