
Relax on the rooftop at Comoncy offering views above 3rd during breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack and dinner. Friendly servers will deliver your food for take-out or to dine on the patio. (photo by Jill Weinlein)
Almost 10 years ago, I reviewed Napa Valley Grille in Westwood helmed by executive chef Joseph Gillard. He told me how much he appreciates farmers because he was raised on a 40-acre farm in Michigan. His family had a large vegetable garden and market stand to provide sustenance and income.
At the age of 5, he became infatuated with Julia Child on television and started reading her cookbooks when he was 10, declaring to his mother that he wanted a be a chef.
When he moved to Los Angeles, he worked at a few restaurants, including Joachim Splichal’s Pinot Bistro. Through his work at Napa Valley Grille, he supported local farms, and launched his own community-supported agriculture program. He led a chef’s tour of the Westwood Village Farmers Market and organized the first-ever Westwood and UCLA Volunteer Day, preparing and donating 450 gourmet box lunches to volunteers. This kind chef contributes his time to numerous Los Angeles fundraisers, including Meals on Wheels, the Los Angeles Opera Wine Auction and the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation.
After he left Napa Valley Grille in 2011, he joined the Coral Tree Cafe group as the new corporate chef, presiding over three cafe locations in Brentwood, Encino and Century City.
With its success, co-owner and restaurateur Kevin Khalili invited him to be the head corporate chef at another new dining concept, Comoncy.
The name Comoncy means a community that prides itself on good food, good company and good coffee while focusing on healthy eating, fresh ingredients and farm-to-table cuisine.
Last week, my daughter and I visited the new Comoncy Cafe on Third Street near Crescent Heights.
Following California and Los Angeles health and safety mandates, Comoncy reopened for takeout, delivery and contactless al fresco dining. Team members are ServSafe-certified and required to pass a health check each day.
We met our server Carlos at the order counter, standing in front of a bright orange tiled wall. He welcomed us and recommended we try their new Tenzo matcha lemonade. It offers the caffeine of a mid-afternoon pickup and has the health benefits of green tea without the jitters or crash. After one sip, we both agreed the green beverage tasted like an uplifting Arnold Palmer without being too sweet.
Gillard’s menu includes European-style breakfasts served all day to be enjoyed with artisanal roasted coffee beverages made from a state-of-the-art espresso machine.
Glass cases next to the counter display rows of puffy pastries, fruity muffins, colorful cakes and cookies.
Savory items include organic egg and applewood-smoked bacon breakfast sandwiches; La Jolla egg white omelette with spinach, feta and avocado; egg bowls and eggs to your liking. The avocado toast is on olive bread with oven-roasted tomatoes, sliced radish and a sprinkling of Maldon sea salt.
They offer a kale salad similar to Gillard’s Napa Valley Grille fan-favorite kale salad, so I ordered one. What makes his kale salad so unique is that it’s 50% kale and 50% romaine lettuce tossed with golden raisins, organic quinoa, almonds, shredded Parmesan Regina and shallots, before being drizzled with lemon vinaigrette.
My daughter ordered the colorful Thai salad that arrived chopped with Napa cabbage and local organic greens and enhanced with toasted peanuts and julienne jicama for a pleasing crunch. Sliced heirloom carrots and sweet red cherry peppadew peppers add sweetness, some fresh basil ensures earthiness and crispy ginger a touch of heat. It’s tossed with a sweet chili Mae Ploy vinaigrette and served with a generous slice of baguette.
We decided to share the Comoncy Beyond burger, and after one bite, I declared it’s one of the best veggie burgers I have tasted. Imagine a Beyond meatless burger that is quinoa-crusted, layered with sliced bright red tomatoes, savory crispy onions, a pleasing remoulade and handful of local greens in-between a soft brioche bun.
Chef Gillard and his team also make a caprese sandwich on a ciabatta, roasted turkey on a baguette with green apples and a walnut spread, and a Beverly Hills club on whole grain bread that is layered with chicken breast, slices of applewood-smoked bacon, Roma tomatoes, a smear of Dijon mustard, scallion aioli and local organic greens.
Other entrées include a Mediterranean-style grilled wild salmon, served with quinoa tabbouleh, organic spinach and Greek yogurt tzatziki; and a brown rice bowl with chopped local market vegetables, grilled chicken breast slices and a pleasing homemade salsa to add on top.
Macaroni and cheese fans will like the orecchiette pasta topped with three different cheeses – aged cheddar, Parmesan Reggiano and pepper jack. A generous splash of cream and garlic bread crumbs complete this comforting dish. Another pasta on the menu is a homemade Shelton turkey Bolognese on pappardelle pasta, with organic basil, a little cream and sprinkling of Parmesan Reggiano.
Carlos invited us to the rooftop garden dining patio overlooking the Beverly Grove area for picturesque social distancing dining. Guests are encouraged to sit at one of the tables on the patio and order from their smartphone instead of waiting at the counter. A step-by-step process helps diners upload Comoncy’s online ordering platform where you can place an order and pay, limiting employee interaction, if so desired. A staff member will deliver your order to your table either for dine-in or take-away.
Comoncy is also dog-friendly. They make a doggie bowl filled with chicken and grains for pets to dine with their owners.
Come see why I am a big fan of chef Gillard and his team who are preparing flavorful, comforting and healthy dishes for a good value at Comoncy. Go online to see the menu and for other locations and hours. comoncy.com. $-$$ 8201 Third St., (424)317- 5801.
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