The corn-cake sopes are layered with tender pork, sour cream, chopped avocado and tomatoes. Crumbled white cotija cheese tops off this dish. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

Cantina Frida, a new concept by Frimex Hospitality Group, the creators of Frida Mexican Cuisine, Frida Tacos and Taco Libre, opened in the former Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse in Beverly Hills, just a few blocks away from the original Frida Mexican restaurant.

The two-story restaurant on North Beverly Drive features a long cantina bar area and was full of patrons enjoying margaritas, ceviche and taco tasting plates during happy hour when I visited the restaurant.

Greeting my friends and me at the entrance was the charismatic, Argentinian-born Abel Santillian. Not only is he the general manager and a knowledgeable wine connoisseur, his enthusiasm for the new dining concept is contagious.

“It’s a new fork-and-knife concept, serving more gourmet, authentic Mexican fare. It’s a step up from the hundreds of street taco, burrito and enchilada casual Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles,” he said.

We settled in a leather booth near an olive tree with a view of the observation kitchen.

The cantina serves top-shelf mezcal and crafted tequilas that received the “T Certificate Award” by Mexico’s Tequila Regulatory Council. The council verifies the tequilas have passed all quality standards to ensure they are the best tequilas in the world.

Starting with a classic margarita made with orange juice reduction, lime and tequila, the spicy flavor along the salted rim kicks with every sip.

Other specialty drinks include blackberry and blood orange margaritas, and a mezcal cocktail made with lime juice, tamarind mix and Tamarindo soda. They also offer an extensive wine list and festive cocktails from different regions in Mexico.

Our server prepared guacamole table side in a lava rock molcajete, served with a basket of crunchy yellow corn tortilla chips.

A plate of citrus ceviche de pescado followed, served on a white plate with “Cantina” in cursive and “FRIDA” in bold letters.

The artfully arranged, thinly sliced white fish was adorned with a nest of thinly shaved carrots and jicama with a sprig of cilantro in the center. The fish was drizzled with lime juice and scattered with sliced jalapeño peppers.

Layers of tender pork glazed with a flavorful pasilla chile sauce arrived on five corn-cake sopes, topped with a dollop of sour cream, chopped avocado, tomato and crumbled cotija cheese.

For entrées, we ordered two of their signature dishes: a mole negro and camarones al ajillo. Camarones, or large shrimp, emerged slicked with a butter-garlic white wine sauce. In the center of the plate, a mound of white rice was garnished with green and red tortilla chips and sprigs of parsley. The rich sauce coated the shrimp and gave it a pleasing flavor.

The negro mole sauce covered tender slices of chicken served on a dark green leaf with slices of red onion. The mole was not too sweet, not too chocolatey and one of the best moles I’ve ever tasted.

Twelve varieties of classic (carne asada, pastor) and novel (mushroom, marinated tuna) tacos can be made with corn or flour tortillas or as a lettuce wrap. Enchiladas can be ordered in threes with chicken or cheese, tomatillo, chile ancho or mole sauce.

Bigger, grilled plates include filet mignon, skirt steak, halibut in a white wine butter sauce and salmon with a creamy chipotle sauce. 

Birthday celebrations are common here, with four flaming sparkler desserts passing by throughout the evening. Dessert offerings are more than just flan. They make a pretty pastel tres leches sponge cake covered in cream frosting and scattered with chocolate shavings and fresh berries. Another winner at the table was a creme brûlée made with roasted sweet potato with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and mint leaf on top. Candied walnuts gave the plate a sweet crunch.

After dinner, Santillian led us on a tour to see the private dining room, which has its own entry. The quieter, more intimate space is perfect for special events for up to 25 people.

Santillian and his staff invite all to experience Cantina Frida’s dining room and exclusive lounge upstairs, a speakeasy-style tequila and mezcal bar with a velvet-lined door – dark and sexy, with a DJ spinning music.

Visit Cantina Frida for artisanal Mexican cuisine with fine-dining hospitality. Open for brunch, lunch, happy hour and dinner. $$ 252 N. Beverly Drive, (310)285-6666.