A Hollywood tradition, Miceli’s on N. Las Palmas is the oldest Italian restaurant in Tinseltown, operating since 1949. Be serenaded by the servers and enjoy Sicilian cuisine. (photo courtesy of Miceli’s)

With the tune of a lively piano melody ringing through Miceli’s, guests packed in like sardines to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Los Angeles’ oldest Italian restaurant.

Notable figures like Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra and John F. Kennedy wined and dined in the same red booths that occupy the restaurant today.

Sylvia Miceli, the matriarch of the family, demurred at the spotlight as she opened the anniversary dinner with a few remarks.

Sylvia and her husband Carmen Miceli, a former shoeshine boy and Purple Heart-awarded veteran, scraped together enough money with the help of their family to open the Sicilian eatery in 1949.

As is tradition, meals at Miceli’s begin with baskets of warm bread rolls and wine served in glass chalices.

Entertainment was provided by the wait staff, who chose solos or paired up for duets to serenade guests in between taking orders. They carried the songs across the checkered floor, faces lit by the twinkling chandeliers hanging from the high ceiling.

After concluding her song of choice, a waitress took orders for the main course and brought a fried calamari appetizer plate to the table. Balanced with a zesty squeeze of lemon, the crispy breading balanced well with the chewy squid.

Between courses, presentations from a number of attendees began. Miceli’s received a star plaque from the Hollywood Chamber of Commerce, a certificate of recognition from the office of Los Angeles Councilman Mitch O’Farrell, 13th District, and a framed document from Assemblyman Richard Bloom (D-Santa Monica) recognizing the restaurant and its legacy.

With a long family history of employment, Sylvia’s son Frank Miceli recounted how he peeled carrots using a chef’s knife when he was only 5 years old.

“I don’t think any of us give our kids butter knives now and don’t worry,” Frank joked.

Over traditional dishes like manicotti and fettuccini carbonara, diners listened to Frank and his brother, Joe Miceli, thank the generations of family and staff that help keep the restaurant running. Before a resounding anniversary serenade and hearty servings of sheet cake, Joe wrapped up the speeches.

“You know how they say, ‘find a job you love.’ Anyway, this is it,” Joe said. “This is my life, all these people here.”

Miceli’s is located at 1646 N. Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood, and 3655 Cahuenga Blvd, Universal City.

For information, visit micelis.restaurant, or call the Hollywood location at (323)466-3438 or the Universal City location at (323)851-3344.