The popover Benedict is served with preacher ham, poached egg, green garlic hollandaise and garden greens. (photo courtesy of manuela)

In the center of the Hauser & Wirth art gallery is a culinary gem, Manuela. Named for Maneula Wirth, the restaurant offers sensational seasonal dishes prepared by Executive Chef Kris Tominaga. A Los Angeles native, Tominaga has created a coastal California menu that includes comfort food, such as biscuits served with honey butter and country ham.

Hauser & Wirth art gallery occupies a former flour mill and offers an indoor-outdoor ambiance with reclaimed brick and wood sourced from the 1920s-era building. Diners at Manuela can congregate in various areas of the restaurant, at the outdoor bar or at the interior bar with high ceilings and modern wheel-like chandeliers created by contemporary artist Paul McCarthy.

A colorful map of Los Angeles by artist Mark Bradford adorns one wall. A large-scale mural of the ocean, clouds, rocks and a rainbow by American artist Raymond Pettibon hangs inside a glassed-in private room, an intimate space that seats up to 12 guests for social gatherings, dinner parties, brunch or bridal showers.

A marble communal counter allows diners to watch the activity of the open kitchen, where chefs plate dishes fresh from the wood-fired grill.

A bi-level patio overlooks the sculpture courtyard. Nearby is a curated art book store, several gallery spaces, a chef’s vegetable garden growing homegrown herbs and flowers and a chicken coop.

For starters, try the American cheese board with a wedge of Vermont Cabot clothbound cheddar, which had a crumbly texture and nutty aroma, a slice of Iowa prairie breeze – a twist on a well-aged white cheddar – and a slice of Hook’s 10-year cheddar from Wisconsin. A glass Mason jar filled with Spanish peanuts, some pickled purple cabbage, a wedge of red garnet yam spread and thick slices of delicious sesame-crusted bread accompanies the cheese.

Sesame seeds appear in other dishes like the ceviche with chopped avocado, julienne of radish, ginger and fresh lime juice.  Sesame seeds are sprinkled on the citrus, chicories, labneh and seed salad that is dressed with a pleasing sherry and walnut vinaigrette.

A plate of deviled eggs  – made from the @chicksofmanuela – (yes, they have their own Instagram) are filled with a savory paste of yolk, buttermilk, dill and a pinch of celery salt. It is a splendid shared dish as are the barbecued Morro Bay oysters with nasturtium butter, breadcrumbs and melted parmesan crumbs.

Crisp polenta smothered with maitake ragu combines simple cornmeal with complex mushroom flavors and crème fraîche.

On both the lunch and brunch menus are the table-pleasing chilaquiles with perfectly poached eggs, zesty sauce, pickled radish and avocado.

The broccolini is served with pickled garlic and peanuts and glazed with a smoked chili vinegar and charred snap peas that arrived on top of wild rice with crumbled feta, chopped mint and melted sesame date butter to give it a touch of sweetness with each crunchy bite.

Brown butter Liberty Farms duck. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

The most artistically presented dish is the perfectly cooked Liberty Farms sliced duck breast in brown butter with spheres of satsuma citrus, thinly sliced watermelon radish and sprigs of watercress to provide additional color and flavor.

Finish with a plate of ooey-gooey, brown butter chocolate chip cookies with a scoop of milk chocolate ice cream and almond toffee for a delicious treat.

Manuela is open for lunch, weekend brunch and dinner. $$-$$$ 907 E. Third St., (323)849-0480.