Baltaire’s Travis Strickland is a chef with a big heart. The executive chef recently participated in the Taste of the Nation festival in Culver City, where he cooked up delicious Nueske’s cherrywood BLT lettuce cups to fundraise for the nonprofit No Kid Hungry. He also co-founded the “Run For Your Knives” 5K Run that benefits scholarships for The Culinary Institute of America. But come prepared with a big appetite when dining on Strickland’s culinary creations – his innovative and dynamic flavors will compel you to try more.

Thick orange cornmeal hotcakes are similar to Southern johnny cakes or hoecakes. The orange zest is a nice touch. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

I recently enjoyed Sunday brunch at Baltaire while sitting on the light and airy outdoor terrace with a retractable roof. As I was admiring the serene green and grey hues of the classy California restaurant, my party and I received an amuse-bouche of bright blue spirulina yogurt, complete with fresh fruit compote, pecan granola and a sliced strawberry on top.

I sipped on the Contratto Metodo Classico Millesimato Pas Dose 2012 – the oldest sparkling wine house in Italy – which paired perfectly with Strickland’s special cinnamon monkey bread delivered straight from the oven in a black iron baking loaf pan.

Impressed by the first bread treat, we ordered three different toasts to share around the table. The bread is made in-house with natural fermentation. Two were sweet – one featuring Nutella and sliced caramelized banana on a slice of homemade brioche with a brown butter streusel, and the other featuring a ricotta and blueberry compote that had a touch of Meyer lemon and mint to enhance the earthy flavors. The more savory toast was layered with smoked salmon and avocado. It was adorned with pickled onion, radish egg and a crushed Espelette pepper giving it a nice kick.

A few friends at my table ordered the prettiest brunch cocktail, a Lavender 75. It’s made with lavender-infused Absolut Elyx, smoked honey syrup and lemon juice, and then topped off with Champagne. A sprig of lavender enhances this bubbly brunch classic.

Bar manager August O’Mahoney also makes a vegan cocktail named The Piccolo. It’s a take on the Cappelletti sour with whipped aquafaba, or chickpea water. Baltaire reuses the chickpea water from the hummus they make in-house. Not only does the liquid cut waste, but also it’s a delicious vegan egg white substitute. The sour was additionally enhanced with a little baking spice, lime and orange juice.

Our second course of brunch featured an array of skillet dishes. After training at The Culinary Institute of America, Strickland cooked at the legendary Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tennessee. This experience inspired him to create at Baltaire the thick orange cornmeal hot cakes. It’s a decadent take on johnnycakes or hoecakes, and the orange zest adds a nice touch.

Wine sommelier Melanie Kaman recommended a beautiful Copain Tous Ensemble rosé or pinot noir from Mendocino County to pair nicely with the heavier skillet dishes. The rosé carried aromas of watermelon, strawberry, lemon blossom and orange, and offered moderate acidity for an enjoyable finish. It also cut the fattiness of the beautifully presented chilaquiles arranged in a flower shape and topped with soft-poached eggs. What made this dish unique was the shredded cauliflower adding a slightly nutty flavor.

The last skillet was a Tunisian and Israeli dish called shakshouka, a sauce of tomatoes, chili peppers and onions, spiced with cumin and topped with poached eggs. It was delectable.

We next enjoyed a glass of Oregon’s Willamette Valley Croft Vineyard 2014 Haden Fig pinot noir, which paired perfectly with slices of harissa lamb with an almond and olive relish, and duck fat potatoes. It also went well with the popular prime filet Benedict layered with avocado.

Brunch at Baltaire will heighten your senses with its inventive tastes, along with its charming atmosphere, food presentation, cocktails and wine offerings. $$$ 11647 San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles, (424)273-1660.