About a year ago, the Wokcano sign on Third Street near the Beverly Center came down, and a C.O.D Seafood House & Raw Bar sign went up. I reviewed it a few years ago and enjoyed dining there, so I was sad to see it close.

Fresh catch of the day – from sea bream to uni – is on the menu at C.O.D. Seafood House on 3rd. St. (photo courtesy of COD Seafood House)

Last week my husband and I dined at C.O.D. Seafood and learned Michael and Marcus Kwan – who operated Wokano – are still the owners, and Marcus is the Executive Chef. After 16 years of running several successful restaurants, inclduing EMC Seafood, Triple 8 and Backhouse, the Kwans changed the concept at this location to a more elevated dining experience. The interior is still visually pleasing with exposed wood rafters, cool concrete flooring, and an old brick wall behind the bar with back lit shelves holding bottles of spirits. A large wooden dugout canoe is suspended above the bar by thick jute rope.

A beautiful mural of colorful fish adorns an entire wall, painted by the talented duo Jeff McMillan and Gary Musgrave, also known as The Draculas.

We were seated by Leanna Raynauli, the assistant general manager, who gave us a cocktail menu, the main menu and a special menu of the day featuring whole fish that can be prepared and served tableside. “C.O.D. stands for ‘Catch of the Day’ with the freshest and highest quality ingredients available on the market. The fish is never frozen here,” she said.

Oysters on the half shell come in several varieties, including Kusshi. (photo courtesy of COD Seafood House)

Looking at the cocktail list, I discovered that the menu was created by my favorite SoCal mixologist and C.O.D. Beverage Consultant Rob Floyd. My husband ordered the Cucumber Mint Smash made with Calwise gin, mint, cucumber and blueberries, while I sipped a pink Skinny Mini made with Arette tequila, watermelon juice, and a splash of jalapeño juice offering a touch of heat. It went well with our first dish of halibut carpaccio sliced thinly and drizzled with citrus juice, olive oil, a pinch of sea salt, yuzu kosho, and a few sprigs of basil.

Throughout the evening we heard cheering upstairs. “There is a party of 50 guests up there,” said our server Nick as he took our order. “You should check the space out after your dinner. It’s a great party venue.”

In addition to inventive cocktails, there is a nice wine list with bubbly, light, white and crisp; herbacous; fresh and citrusy; and big bold and beautiful. Champagne pairs well with the seafood tower. Choose from flutes of Nicolas Feuillarte, Laurent Perrier and Moet & Chandon. Splurge and order a bottle of Cristal by Louis Roederer with a dozen oysters served with horseradish, cocktail, and a yuzu soy sauce. The meaty Kusshi oysters from British Colombia offer a creamy finish. The Kumamoto from Washington are salty and sweet, and I really liked the Fat Bastard oysters from Washington, offering a hint of asparagus and cucumber. Other raw items include fresh cherry stone clams and Santa Barbara uni.

Next we ordered the crab toast with sliced avocado, citrus, herb olive oil, pickled bell pepper, and shallots. At the table next to us, they ordered a lobster roll on a grilled brioche bun that looked really good.

Additional small plates that we shared included crispy garlic Brussels sprouts and grilled octopus topped with crispy bacon, scallion, lemon zest, pickled shallots and meaty kidney beans.

If you prefer something other than seafood, the menu offers crispy skin Jidori chicken; braised beef cheeks with mushroom quinoa; crispy pork belly; and truffle Kobe beef sliders with melted Muenster cheese and truffle sauce on small brioche buns.

Our server asked if we had room for two more dishes, both signature favorites. “The truffle uni pasta is incredible,” Nick said. When it arrived, I noticed shaved truffle over the green nori linguini pasta. The creamy uni sauce was like a satisfying Alfredo, yet not as heavy. To enhance this decadent flavor even more, chef Kwan spoons fish roe on top.

We also ordered a whole New Zealand sea bream that was lightly fried on the outside with tender, light and moist meat inside. It’s tastes similar to a red snapper. Nick fileted the fish tableside, removing the bones.

We only had enough room for one dessert, so we ordered the rich and gooey chocolate volcano cake. Other desserts on the menu are Okinawa purple yams with brown sugar and butter; chocolate bread pudding and a yuzu citrus flavored creme brûlée.

Before leaving I walked upstairs to check out the party room on the second floor. At the full-sized bar a crowd of millennials were celebrating with food and drinks. Walking out on the front patio overlooking West Third Street and the Beverly Center, I marveled at the views and tranquility above the street level. It’s a fun party venue that can accommodate up to 80 guests.

Recently Kwan created a brunch menu for Saturday and Sunday starting at 10:30 a.m. They serve bloody Mary’s and bottomless mimosas to pair with some of the freshest seafood along Third Street.

C.O.D. Seafood House & Raw Bar is open Monday through Wednesday from 5 to 11 p.m. On Thursday through Saturday, it stays open until 2 a.m. $$$ 8408 W. Third St. (323)658-9188.