Biting into a slice of chef Kenny Spost’s crunchy cornflake French toast with macerated strawberries on top was pure bliss, especially with a flute of Kenwood’s sparkling Cuvee Brut at Napa Valley Grille.
This new chef has quite an interesting background with years of experience. He started at the age of 13 working in a New York deli as the egg guy.
“I became an expert on cracking eggs,” Spost said. He perfected his knife skills at 15 before going to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. Soon he moved to South Beach in Miami working at the iconic Delano Hotel. When he ventured to Los Angeles he worked as a sous chef at Napa Valley Grille, Cafe del Rey and Blackhawk Grille, before returning to Napa Valley Grille as the head chef.

(photo by Jill Weinlein)
Sitting at a long table in the private dining room looking out to Glendon Ave., general manager Dave Meyers greeted us with a warm smile. Meyers has been here since the restaurant renovations debuted in July 2016. Our server, Barnabas, delivered a chilled watermelon gazpacho in a large white bowl, the first of many courses. Dots of basil oil and chopped mint adorned the soup, giving it a savory tomato essence that was complemented by grilled pineapple and fresh watermelon juice – very refreshing on a warm day.
The next dish was artfully presented on a long wood board with roasted red and yellow baby beets and one larger, golden beet shaped as a pear. The beets were arranged on top of creamy white burrata with sprigs of arugula, a sprinkling of toasted pine nuts and tarragon vinaigrette.
I usually don’t order chicken liver pâté, however Spost spreads it on slices of delicious pecan-raisin bread with a touch of braised onion-thyme jam and dollops of goat cheese and micro greens. It was delicious.
For entrees we enjoyed three dishes served family style with my favorite being the thick cornflake crusted French toast that Spost sears before deep frying. It’s not greasy, and offers a delightful crunchy crust on the outside, yet soft and warm inside. He tops it with macerated strawberries, powdered sugar and serves the dish with a small carafe of vanilla anglaise sauce to pour on top.
The steelhead trout is quite good on a bed of farrotto with a large slice of roasted eggplant and drizzle of lemon vinaigrette. What’s farrotto? If you like risotto, farrotto mimics risotto’s cooking yet with farro instead of rice. It captures risotto’s profound comfort, yet with a nuttier essence. What a clever way to cook this ancient grain to accompany grilled fish.
It seems many restaurants offer chilaquiles on their brunch menu, yet at some restaurants, it’s glorified nachos. Spost braises pork, guajillo chilis and ancho peppers, adds scrambled eggs, a little sour cream and pico de gallo, before sprinkling it with queso fresco.
Pastry chef Anna Torres works well with Spost and makes a few exquisite desserts including a beautifully presented passion fruit pot de creme with a raspberry gelée and a delicate cookie. A few raspberries top this flavorful treat in a glass jar. She also makes a tiramisu and deconstructed cheesecake.
Since Mother’s Day is this weekend, bring the family to experience many of these dishes I enjoyed. Enjoy a Mother’s Day three-course brunch menu for $45 per person from 11 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Other menu items include soft shell crab, steak frites and a vegetarian egg white frittata. $$ 1100 Glendon Avenue #100, (310)824-3322.
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