Excited to see “Zoot Suit” at the Mark Taper Forum last week, I made a reservation at Kendall’s Brasserie at the Music Center, in order to park just once, dine and walk to the theater. Recently, the Patina Group renovated the classic French brasserie adding a few contemporary elements. Gone are the white linen table cloths – now the wood tables offer a clean and more casual look. The impressive circular bar remains, as do the traditional Parisian tile floor and wood paneling throughout the dining rooms.

Recessed lighting and modern oiled bronze fixtures in geometric designs with small Edison bulbs create a warm ambience. A private dining room seats up to 20 guests for intimate dinner parties or special meetings.

I recognized our server, Jesus, and asked how long has he worked at Kendall’s Brasserie. “I’ve worked with the Patina team at almost every restaurant for 22 years,” he said.

Traditional coq au vin arrives in a Le Creuset cast iron pot, brimming with succulent chicken, mushrooms and wine.
(photo by Jill Weinlein)

Glancing at the menu attached to a wooden clipboard, Jesus recommended we start with the calamari. “It’s sautéed, not fried, with a pleasing smoky flavor,” he said. He also mentioned the onion tart and Jidori chicken liver pate.

The wine list included four types of champagne and sparkling wines by the glass. My husband thought an Italian Abbazia, Trentino Alto Adige Pinot Grigio would pair nicely with the onion tart. It was an excellent choice offering a pale yellow color with a crisp and slightly fruity profile of peach and honeydew melon and tangy acidity on the finish.

Imagining a classic French onion tart, we were surprised when it arrived as a circular, flat-bread pizza cut into eight slices. On top what looked like olives were actually fermented cherries along with crumbled, Applewood-smoked bacon, caramelized onions and comte cheese. This French cheese offers aromatic flavors of brown-butter and roasted nut with a slightly sweet finish.

As my starter, I selected an endive salad with a glass of dry, easy-to-drink Moulin De La Rogue, Vin de Bandol rosé. The salad had chopped watercress and endive with caramelized candied walnuts, thinly sliced Fuji apples and crumbled fourme d’ambert cheese. It’s one of France’s oldest cheeses, dating back to Roman times made from raw cow’s milk and offering distinct blue veins with pleasing notes of cream.

Executive Chef Jean-Pierre Bosc walked out of the kitchen to mingle with his guests. When he approached our table he told us that he has been the chef at Kendall’s Brasserie for almost five years. Before he owned the authentic French bistro Mimosa and Café des Artistes in Los Angeles. Asking us how we like the new look, I complimented his choice of new serving dishes and told him that I enjoyed his new onion tart. He recommended a few of his winter menu items that included the classic coq au vin. I ordered it for my entrée and was delighted with the presentation. A cork trivet was placed on the table before Jesus put down a piping hot, blue enameled cast iron baking dish filled with the traditional French rustic stew of brined and braised chicken in a thick red wine sauce. Trumpet mushrooms, small white and purple potatoes and an array of soft, rainbow colored sliced carrots completed this perfect dish for a cool night.

Another traditional French dish ideal for winter is Chef Jean Pierre’s bouillabaisse. In a similar serving dish as the coq au vin, this fish stew includes pieces of monk fish, a few mussels, clams and shrimp in a saffron broth with potatoes, fennel and leeks. There is also a French cassoulet with Toulouse sausage, braised lamb, cannellini beans and duck confit.

My husband ordered the salmon after Chef Jean-Pierre explained he sous vides the fish in olive oil making it incredibly moist. It’s served on a bed of lentils, quarters of artichoke hearts with the stem and a pickled red onion vinaigrette.

Side dishes on the menu include duck fat frites, creamy mac and cheese, Brussels sprouts and roasted rainbow colored carrots.

Seeking a quick dessert before curtain, we ordered the apple tarte tatin with a scoop of vanilla gelato and drizzle of caramel. Jesus said we should come back after the show for their after-theatre special. After 8 p.m. they offer two glasses of sparkling wine and a choice of dessert for $25. They also offer a two course Passport to France dinner for $35 and a three course meal for $40 after 8 p.m.

Next time you see a show at The Music Center or crave authentic French cuisine, experience the revitalized Kendall’s Brasserie. $$ 135 N. Grand Ave. (213)972-7322.