While creating a new sleek, modern, Italian restaurant in Silverlake near the Sunset Triangle, owners Beau Laughlin, Brett Cranston and Jay Milliken snickered whenever they said the phrase “calling the kettle black.”  While renovating a cavernous 1922 bank near their successful restaurant Sawyer (only two doors down), they agreed this idiom would be a good name for their newest endeavor.

Wood-fired eggplant with vin cotto, garlic, olive oil and parmesan has the texture of scallops and an essence of charcoal. (photo courtesy of Kettle Black)

They collaborated with designer Carlos Anthony Lopez to create a rustic, hip ambiance with the 17 foot vaulted ceiling painted black with contrasting brown stained truss beams. The 3,000 sq. ft. interior has hexagon marble floor tiles and warm brown hardwood flooring. Custom iron and walnut chairs and banquets covered with raw denim fabric provide comfortable seating. White tile floors and some original brick walls create an old world charm.

Lopez created a stunning mosaic of plants strategically placed on one wall as living artwork. Opposite is another main focal point – a floor to ceiling golden bar, brightly lit and filled with over 500 wine and spirit bottles. The wines are selected by certified European sommelier, Dario Dell’Anno, who previously worked at Mozza and Providence. His selection is a variety of bold Italian wines that are rarely offered in Los Angeles. Behind the stunning golden bar are barkeeps Damien Windsor and Jordan Young. They create a wide variety of craft vintage and house cocktails, after dinner drinks and pour house made Italian style vermouths.

The original bank vault remains in the back. They thought about turning the vault into a speak-easy bar, however its current use is for much needed storage.

Beautiful wood stairs with accent tiles lead diners up to a private second level with 26 seats for intimate gatherings or private parties.

Throughout the restaurant are Edison bulbs hanging from the ceiling to provide festive lighting in the evening when the lights are dimmed low for the dinner crowd.

The owners enthusiastically hired Executive Chef Sydney C. Hunter III to lead the kitchen. He became a chef in 2002 when he enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Pasadena. He started at L’Orangerie working with acclaimed Chef Ludovic Lefebvre. He helped Lefebvre with his pop-up restaurant concept series and then with the opening of Petit Trois. His talent helped lead the restaurant to a nomination for James Beard Best New Restaurant 2015, and Bon Appetit’s 2015 The Hot Ten: America’s Best New Restaurants, and win Food & Wine’s Best New Restaurant 2015.

The stunning interior of Kettle Black features a wall of hanging plants, upholstered banquets and marble tile floors. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

The all-male operation at Kettle Black needed a woman’s touch, so they hired the dynamic Alegre Bianco, formerly from the Ace Hotel Los Angeles, to run operations and provide hospitality.

Sitting at a table for two near the open kitchen, I periodically peered over to watch Hunter and his team in action. We started with the fire-blistered eggplant cut into large, bite size pieces and doused with saba vin cotto (a dark, sweet, thick Italian paste, made from grapes and similar to a balsamic vinegar), garlic, olive oil, parmesan, and a sprinkle of chili flakes. The texture and essence of charcoal is appealing in this delicious dish.

Another winner was the sliced cauliflower florets that were bathed in warm bagna cauda made with garlic, anchovies, olive oil, and perhaps a touch of cream. Hunter zests it with fried capers, pickled raisins and crunchy pine nuts. Again, there were tiny charcoal speckles on this dish.

Kettle Black offers puffed crust pizzas that are blistered slightly black around the edges. The pizza de Parma has slightly peppery arugula added on top to give a coolness to the hot pie. It’s sprinkled with lemon vinaigrette, slices of prosciutto di parma, and just enough parmesan reggiano to satisfy, yet not be too cheesy.

Our last dish was a simple egg-based pasta made with smooth housemade Garganelli tubes. They start out as a flat and square pasta that is rolled into a tubular shape. It’s similar to penne, yet more rustic in appearance. The noodles glisten with a full-bodied wood fired Bolognese sauce and sprinkling of pecorino romano cheese. It’s truly bellissimo.

Hunter makes other pasta dishes including pappardelle with maitake mushroom and nasturtium butter; agnolotti filled with zucchini pesto, lemon zest; and cacio e pepe with cappelinni, parmesan brudo, black peppercorn.

For heartier fare the menu offers Branzino fish, sirloin steak and Mary’s half roasted chicken. We agreed to come back and try these dishes on our next visit, because we wanted to try at least one dessert. The Siciliano arrived layered in a small mason jar topped with an ethereal smoked meringue. Below were crunchy, candied nuts and an amaretto soaked sponge cake.

Kettle Black offers a pleasing menu of wood-fired dishes, pizza and vegetables that shine with color, flavor and texture. Happy hour is daily from 5 to 7 p.m. for beer, wine and cocktails starting at $3 and food  starting at $7. Late-night happy hour is offered Sunday through Wednesday from 11p.m. to  2 a.m. $$ 3705 W. Sunset Blvd. (323)641-3705.