A bouncer was stationed at the entrance. A Ferrari was parked in front. Pulsating music and dim lights emanated from inside the restaurant. All of this was a big surprise for Sunday brunch at Bagatelle on La Cienega Blvd.

Handsome servers don t-shirts saying “Champagne, s’il vous plait!” and they gladly keep the mimosas coming at Bagatelle on La Cienega. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

I’ve never been to a brunch that offers a club-like atmosphere during the day. I’m not talking country-club, I’m talking night club, where a well-dressed man at the entrance checks each guest’s drivers license. For brunch? Just you wait.

Dining at Bagatelle is so much more than just food – it’s a lifestyle. It was as if I’d been invited to a lavish party in South Beach, Florida or the South of France. The servers are mostly young and handsome Frenchmen wearing white t-shirts that say “Champagne s’il vous plait” and the hashtag #champagnesociety. Female servers wear similar shirts with Daisy Duke shorts.

This is the only Bagatelle in California. There are locations in New York, Rio, Miami, Dubai, St. Tropez, St. Paulo, and Punta del Este in Uruguay.

Located in the former boudoir space in front of STK, the decor in this multi-level restaurant is black and white with large chandeliers dimly lighting the room. The room brightens when trays of shot glasses of vodka, cucumber, lime, lavender and a sparkler are delivered to tables. The party atmosphere is splashed on social media sites, as guests are constantly tagging and posting photos.

The personable maitre d’ Frederic Charles welcomed us and led us to our table. Once seated, our very French and charming server, Anthony, brought us flutes of mimosas to sip while looking over the menu.

The menu states “Bagatelle is not responsible for whatever transpires during or after brunch, including but not limited to: incidental damages, impairment, broken heels, loss of memory, loss of girlfriend/boyfriend, lost keys, wallets, shirts or any other belongings….Brunch at your own risk.”

Cocktails are named “Girl from Rio” made with Veev Acai vodka, serrano pepper, lemon, mint and passion fruit. Another, “Fuzzy Bee” is made with Hendrick’s gin, lavender honey, lemon and champagne.

The scene is lively as guests mix it up with diners at nearby tables.

Our server brought us a bakery basket filled with jalapeño and cheddar biscuits, croissants and mini fruit and cinnamon pastries and told us about the executive chef.

Growing up in France, Robert Liberato has had an impressive career working with culinary experts Laurent Gras, Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud and Geoffrey Zakarian. In 2007, Liberato was the Chef de Cuisine at The Whisper Lounge at The Grove and later worked with the Son of a Gun team in Los Angeles, and at BLT Steak LA, before leading the kitchen at Bagatelle Los Angeles.

The day we dined the computers were down, so it took a while to receive our fare. We didn’t mind, because the dining room was so entertaining. Later, Liberato approached our table to apologize for the hiccups in the kitchen. “The orders weren’t getting to me as quickly as I would have liked,” he said.

When our dishes did arrive, the tuna tartare was hidden under a mound of large taro chips. As we removed the chips, we found fresh ahi tuna chopped with smooth avocado that was similar to guacamole, and a soy and citrus vinaigrette. The soy sauce overpowered the lighter citrus flavor.

The Croque Madame with a fried egg on top had an umami flavor, as did my husband’s truffle scrambled eggs with creme fraiche and black truffle sauce on brioche. The salade Bagatelle with bibb lettuce, fine herbs and shredded Parmesan cheese was too slick with mustard vinaigrette. Next time, I will request the dressing on the side.

My friend Shaena raved about the brioche French Toast served with a homemade strawberry-maple marmalade and whipped creme fraiche.

Other menu items include eggs Copenhagen with smoked salmon, and salmon caviar, with chive hollandaise on an English muffin. A decadent lobster Benedict arrives with sautéed lobster, poached eggs, and Hollandaise sauce on an English muffin. The 10 oz. NY steak frites is served with a sauce au poivre.

Next time you want to celebrate a special occasion, gather your family and friends for brunch at Bagatelle for a raucous, fun Sunday afternoon.

Bagatelle hours are Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday brunch service starts at 11 a.m. Closed Monday through Thursday. $$ 755 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310)659-3900.