As a frequent patron of the Farmers Market, I always pass the beautifully lit Ulysses Village restaurant and its outdoor seating area and think that it looks like it belongs on a cliff-side in Santorini, in a village worlds away. Tall green plants in rustic red pots surround the patio, and the chairs are painted bright Mediterranean Sea blue. Hana greeted me with a warm smile and seated me on the outdoor patio. She and her husband Peter, owners of Ulysses for 12 years, have recently re-immersed themselves in the day-to-day operations of the restaurant and have brought the authentic home cooking their customers have come to know and love back to Ulysses Voyage.

Grilled white fish is served with a bright lemon caper butter sauce. (photo by Kyle Rachal)

Since I was there for lunch, I decided to eat a bit lighter than I might have at dinner. On the recommendation of my helpful waiter, I started with the grilled octopus and one of their signature dishes, the saganaki, an ouzo flamed cheese. The wine list was generous, and I decided on a Greek wine, wanting a meal that was Greek through and through. The Santorini Greece Atlantis is a crisp white wine with bright citrus notes and wonderfully balanced acid and salinity, similar to a muscadet or pinot grigio.

Right away, I received a basket of warm, traditional pita-like flat bread, fluffy and steaming, followed by the grilled octopus and then the saganaki, which arrived flaming in a cast iron skillet. Both appetizers were delicious. The octopus, drizzled with olive oil and fresh herbs, had wonderfully charred crispy. The saganaki surprised me. You might assume a plate of melted cheese would be heavy and greasy, but this dish couldn’t have been further from it. Made from sheep’s milk, the cheese is rich and slightly salty, but not overpowering.

The two appetizers would have been more than enough for me to have left happy and full, but I continued on and ordered the fish entrée. The fresh grilled white fish was served with a lemon caper sauce, rice and roasted vegetables. The fish was perfectly seasoned, and the bright lemon sauce was an ideal accompaniment. As I continued to enjoy my lunch, I realized that, although I’d ordered several dishes, the meal was not too heavy. The food is light, fresh and flavorful. Hana joined me and spoke about wanting to share real Greek food with her guests. Greek food is simple – the spices, the ingredients, the preparation. This commitment to simplistic and authentic Greek cuisine is apparent at Ulysses.

Before leaving, Hana suggested I try the coffee and dessert. The Nescafe Frappé, a traditional blended coffee, was rich and creamy. I knew immediately it is my new favorite coffee beverage at Farmers Market. Two desserts arrived –  loukoumades, honey-drizzled fried dough balls topped with a locally made, hand-churned ice-cream, and ekmek kantaifi, shredded filo dough with vanilla custard and fresh whipped cream. Both desserts had familiar flavors of vanilla, honey, cinnamon, cream, but were also somehow unique. The loukoumades, a Greek festival favorite, were light and fluffy and soaked up the freshly made ice cream. The shredded filo dough was unlike any dessert I’ve tasted before – a perfect combination of crunchy bits of dough and smooth sweet custard.

Ulysses Voyage was a delight. Speaking with Hana, I learned that, while they offer quality meat dishes, they have a number of vegetarian, gluten free, dairy free, and even vegan friendly options for their diners. When available and in season, they also use ingredients delivered from a local farm for many of the dishes.  I will be returning to Ulysses Voyage often for a mid-day frappé and to catch some live music on the second and fourth Friday of each month (8 p.m. until closing) which, I hear, is reminiscent of a night out in Greece.

Hana and Peter have brought a little bit of Greece to Farmers Market. In their words, “We make it like our mom makes it,” authentic, homemade, delicious.

Ulysses Voyage at the Original Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd. St. (323)939-9728.