A parade of Brazilian gauchos holding large skewers of beef creates an exciting dining experience at Fogo de Chao. Pace yourself, or you will be left with food on your plate, which is what happened when I visited the new Fogo de Chao downtown — in the former Roy’s Hawaiian restaurant space.

The handsome gauchos – or servers – carve grilled meats from skewers including filet mignon, lamb, chicken and pork. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

Fogo de Chao opened its doors in January in the heart of the financial district, and is a short walk from LA Live and Staples Center. The upscale décor is reminiscent of Roy’s, with a large glass wine cellar near the entrance. It looks more like a fine dining restaurant than an all-you-can-eat buffet dining spot.

The Fogo de Chao chain started in 1979 and quickly became a huge success, opening restaurants throughout the United States, in Mexico City and Puerto Rico. Each restaurant offers a pure Brazilian experience and doesn’t “Americanize” the preparation, authenticity or flavors of South America. Many of the servers and chefs are from Brazil.

I went to Fogo de Chao with a friend for lunch and sat next to a window facing downtown’s high-rise buildings. After being greeted by our server, we started at the gourmet market salad and side bar. I particularly liked the butternut squash soup, slices of parmesan from a huge cheese wheel, prosciutto, Brazilian hearts of palm, artichoke bottoms, smoked salmon and sage green jumbo asparagus.

A nice variety of wines from Argentina and Chile are offered, as well as European wines, Napa Valley chardonnays and Sonoma cabernet sauvignons.

All-you-can-eat sides of caramelized bananas, crispy polenta sticks sprinkled with parmesan cheese and doughy piping hot popovers are served at every table. Also at each table is a round card that is green on one side and red on the other. When the card is turned to green, gauchos arrive with grilled beef, chicken, pork and lamb. The gauchos are also chefs, and are responsible for prepping and cooking the giant rotisseries before carving the meat at each table. If the slices of meat are overly rare for a guest’s preference, they carry the rotisserie back to the grill to further cook the meat.

Our favorites were beef dishes with a nice caramelized exterior created by the salt rub and rotisserie flame. The signature picanha is a semi-circular cut of top sirloin seasoned with garlic and sea salt. Flavorful filet mignon is wrapped in bacon, lightly seasoned and grilled rotisserie style.

The gauchos slide some of the meat off long skewers onto plates, such as the chicken legs lightly basted in a delicious marinade, and chicken breasts wrapped in bacon. Other items are sliced thinly by the gauchos while guests use small tongs to take the meat off the skewer. It’s fun, interactive dining.

The cold buffet offers an array of salads, fruit, charcuterie – including prosciutto – and a delightful butternut squash soup. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

With a plate full of food, we turned our card to red to stop the procession of meat. Whatever was left on my plate, stayed on my plate. The restaurant’s policy is that guests may not take leftovers home.

My friend suggested we order the signature papaya cream dessert to share. It is the most requested dessert at Fogo de Chao and similar to a papaya smoothie. A ripe papaya is cut and blended with two to three scoops of Häagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream before it is poured into dessert cups and delivered with a bottle of creme de cassis. The ruby red syrup is poured on top to enhance the sweetness of the fresh fruit.

Vegetarians and light eaters can order the market table and enjoy watching the lively parade of gauchos with meat on skewers. Diners are encouraged to park in a lot across the street during lunch, and valet parking is available for dinner. Lunch is served from 11:30 to 2 p.m.; dinner starts at 4:30 p.m. $$-$$$ 800 S. Figueroa. (213)228-4300.