The Larchmont Grill closed its doors in 2013. The restaurant’s cozy arts and crafts design was homey and a favorite with diners. Fortunately, the restaurant didn’t stay empty for long.

The Larchmont serves local halibut from Santa Barbara with braised artichokes filled with garlic purée. (photo by Jill Weinlein)
Restaurateurs and co-owners Mathew Cape and Spoon Singh were enamored with the 100-year-old building and purchased the restaurant shortly thereafter. They liked the design and neighborhood vibe, and renamed the restaurant The Larchmont.
Cape and Singh recently hired executive chef Kevin Kathman. They liked his work ethic and experience with some of the best chefs in the country, including Thomas Keller of French Laundry, Pinot Blanc, Gramercy Tavern, Gordon Ramsay and Barbette Restaurant. They recognized his passion for using seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients and adding an avant-garde twist with inventive flavors.
I was invited to taste Kathman’s spring menu, and while waiting for my party to arrive, the charming bartender James O’Shea worked his magic at the bar by pouring and shaking cocktails with a creative flair. The wine list features a diverse selection of French, Italian and California varietals, with more than 15 wines by the glass. The restaurant also offers a selection of premium beers from Belgium, Germany and the Czech Republic, and housemade sodas.
The Larchmont is a two-story restaurant offering an intimate feel in three distinct dining areas, including an outdoor wooden deck with tables for al fresco dining.
We sat at a table set for eight in the main downstairs dining room, next to a white brick fireplace. The table was elegantly set with white linen tablecloths and wine glasses. Each dish was paired with a cocktail or glass of wine to enhance the culinary experience.
Our first course featured a Masterson’s Manhattan cocktail paired with foie gras with an orange bitters syrup drizzle and black truffle powder. After the ban on foie gras ban was recently lifted in California, many chefs are enthusiastically presenting the delicacy in appetizing dishes.
Kathman served his buttery foie gras with toast, frisée lettuce and cherry gastric, plated in a sophisticated manner with flavors to match.
Our next course started with a flute of Prosecco and a fresh, earthy spring asparagus soup with a touch of cream. Spring asparagus has recently appeared in farmers’ markets and Kathman is incorporating the flowering perennial in his new seasonal menu.
Next, a plate of paper-thin scallop crudo arrived, paired with a glass of Chablis. I really enjoyed the smoked sturgeon with fennel and potato salad. It was topped with caviar, black truffle powder, lemon oil gel and green nasturtium leaves handpicked by Kathman.
Before the main entrée arrived, I chatted with Singh and learned that he moved to Hawaii after graduating from high school in India. He founded Kona Brewery in the early 1990s. Singh embraces healthy, environmentally friendly food and owns a farm in the Ojai Valley from which some of the farm-to-table produce served at The Larchmont is produced. He has also previously owned, or currently owns, Bar Hayama, Venice Ale House, Austin Ale House, Fork in the Road in Santa Monica and Bank of Venice Public House Restaurant.
Kathman’s moist halibut from Santa Barbara was prepared in the Provençal barigoule-style with braised artichokes filled with garlic puree and sprinkled with purple flower basil. His seasonal veal chop arrived with sliced fingerling potatoes served with his port foie gras sauce and roasted root vegetables.
My favorite dish was the roasted chicken with cauliflower and a pistachio gremolata. It reminds me of Thomas Keller’s chicken served at Bouchon in Yountville and Beverly Hills. The dish was paired with a 2011 Feraud-Brunel Rasteau from Cotes-du-Rhone.
Kathman started working at French Laundry in 1994, after persistently calling Keller on a daily basis. He started as an intern and worked his way up. There were eight chefs when he started; two years later, there were 35 chefs working in the restaurant.
Kathman had the kitchen renovated in The Larchmont and hired three sous chefs. He works from early in the morning until midnight prepping, shopping and creating the restaurant’s fabulous plates.
We finished with a light fresh passion fruit panna cotta with pink grapefruit, blueberries and caramelized nuts, a sweet ending to a memorable evening.
Before leaving, Kathman, Singh and Cape told me their goal for The Larchmont is to create an inviting place, and they aim to keep the prices lower than many restaurants offering the same creative caliber of cuisine.
The Larchmont serves lunch every Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner every Monday through Saturday from 6 to 11 p.m. The restaurant will also soon be open for brunch. $$-$$$ 5750 Melrose Ave. (323)464-4277.
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