Flaming three-foot-tall Italian “Lava Heat” pyramids welcomed us to the newly opened Scarpetta at the Montage Hotel.  One of New York’s most beloved chefs, Scott Conant is now enticing Southern Californians to Beverly Hills with his Southern Italian cooking.

Black cod with caramelized fennel and concentrated tomatoes bursts with dreamy flavors. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

Conant was too busy in his kitchen to come out and meet his patrons one Friday night in November. It’s a shame, because he probably would have been received with applause and a few standing ovations.

Sitting near the front door, we spied Ashton Kutcher and Demi Moore, just a few of the celebs who have helped make this restaurant a destination on the Los Angeles restaurant map in just a few short weeks.

I was on a mission to see if Conant’s signature dish – spaghetti with tomato and basil was worth $24.  It’s been said this dish is sold so often in his New York and Miami Beach restaurants that it has already paid a college tuition. (not sure who’s)

We ordered one spaghetti dish to try. Our server Alex spilt the pasta into two adorable white bowls with matching lids, which when lifted, revealed a large scoop of spaghetti shaped into a ball. This simple, yet extraordinary pasta, with simmered Roma tomatoes and distinctive basil sauce, is magical in flavors. The pasta is a thicker, homemade version than the traditional American spaghetti. It’s comfort food. Thank goodness there was a basket filled with six different types of Italian breads. “Scarpetta” means a hunk of bread to use to soak up a lingering sauce.  We did that with nearly every dish.

Tender duck with heirloom carrots and parsnips is served over golden raisins and lentils with a small dollop of greens on top. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

Oenophiles will appreciate the extensive wine list with Italian, Spanish, French, Austrian, German and American wines with a sprinkling of Greek, Swiss and Argentinean. Our server was very pleasant and patient with my Italian white wine order. When I didn’t like the taste of my first glass, he came out with another one until I was satisfied.

The pumpkin soup arrived split into two bowls and was filled with farro, (an Italian wheat similar to a barley), almonds, spiced croutons and pumpkin oil. Then, a burnt orange pumpkin liquid was poured into the bowl allowing the solid ingredients to float up to the top. The farro gives the smooth soup an exciting crunch.

Another comforting appetizer was the creamy polenta with fricassée truffled mushrooms. I could sit by a roaring fire and just lap up this dish. The pale yellow corn pudding is cooked for three hours with milk, and heavy cream, then folded with butter and Parmesan cheese and served in a small white bowl. Next to the polenta was a small silver pot filled with stewed wild mushrooms.  When united, the ingredients are pure pleasure on one’s palate.

For our entrées, the black cod with caramelized fennel and concentrated tomatoes was dreamy.  Conant peels the tomatoes, then marinates them in a barrel-aged white wine vinegar and slow dries them to produce such a burst of brilliant flavors.  Served with the cod, the tomatoes are ruby red and chewy in a delightful way. The fennel offered a subtle licorice zing that enhanced the cod dish.

Our beautifully presented duck appeared next to heirloom carrots and parsnips with golden raisins and lentils with a small dollop of greens on top.  They complement the unique duck flavor.

Since we split a few items, I still had a little room for a dessert and ordered the coconut panna cotta with guava soup and caramelized pineapple with a scoop of coconut sorbet.  After one spoonful I immediately thought of Hawaii.  It’s a refreshing and cleansing treat that reminded me of a tasty pina colada I sipped during a magnificent sunset in Maui.

Was the spaghetti worth $24? Yes, for a special occasion. Scott Conant offers soulful and inspiring food, in an approachable and not overly stuffy environment.  It’s a great place to celebrate the holiday season. On December 15, he is scheduled to open  Scarpetta Las Vegas at the new Cosmopolitan Resort and Casino. Scarpetta is located at the Montage Beverly Hills Hotel.  225 N. Canon Drive, (310)860-7970. $$$