“Every dish leaving my kitchen has to have something green, crunchy, and an herb,” explained restaurant legend, Michael McCarty, to a group of people touring his kitchen in his Santa Monica restaurant.

Kabocha squash ravioli with a Meyer lemon brown butter sage, topped with hazelnuts and pomegrante seeds. (photo by Jill Weinlein)

I remember the restaurant, Michael’s, in the 1980s while I was at UCLA.  It was the ultimate date restaurant offering a romantically fun indoor/outdoor setting and delicious California/French cuisine. It still maintains the same reputation 31 years later.

McCarty has earned respect among his peers and customers. In the early 1980s, he helped develop the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market, one of the most successful produce markets in Southern California. Chefs from all over Los Angeles drive to the coastal community on Wednesday mornings to buy and bring the freshest ingredients back to their dining establishments.

Once a month, McCarty leads a group of friends and fans on a “Michael’s Market Meet-Up” to experience a shopping spree of the market, his way. The one-of-a-kind event begins inside the restaurant at 8:30am for warm cappuccinos and flaky house-made pastries.  Then, McCarty and Executive Chef, Michael “Mikey” Stern lead the group on a short walk to meet their favorite farmers and explain what they look for in choosing the best produce.  Throughout the walk, Michael is approached with a smile or handshake by fellow chefs, patrons, and farmers. He is practically royalty in Santa Monica.  After purchasing bags of vibrant colored produce, we stroll back to the restaurant for a light lunch paired with wines.

McCarty is also a survivor. Not too many restaurants in Los Angeles have successfully stayed open for 31 years.  After the success of Michael’s in Santa Monica, he became inspired to open other restaurants in Colorado, Detroit, Washington D.C. and New York City.

In 1993, his home and vineyard, along with 300 other homes, burned down in Malibu. One year later, the 1994 “Northridge” earthquake hit the economy hard and affected Santa Monica business. McCarty just put his boxing gloves back on and got back into the ring. “My wife, Kim and two children kept me focused when times were rough,” McCarty shared over lunch. He proudly pointed out to his guests all of Kim’s beautiful artwork and paintings that are displayed throughout the restaurant.

While sitting on the lovely patio and chatting, servers delivered plates of two delicate ravioli filled with Kabocha squash. This delicious Japanese winter squash was served with a Meyer lemon brown butter sage sauce and topped with toasted hazelnuts, fresh pomegranate seeds and micro cress greens. The brown butter sauce brought out the sweetness in the pomegranates and the dish fulfilled his three requirements. “The micro cresses are the green, sage is the herb, and the pomegranate seeds give a delightful crunch,” McCarty boasted.

Next, we were presented with a grilled Manchester Farms quail with a Kabocha squash puree, thyme and wild mushrooms. Both items are now on Michael’s fall menu. The flavors of the meal were enhanced as we sipped a glass of Pinot Noir from Michael’s own Malibu Vineyard.

McCarty was only 25 when he opened Michael’s.  “In 1978, I discovered an old and beat up restaurant, The Brigadoon. I liked the outdoor patio and thought the space was ideal for indoor/outdoor entertaining.”  Throughout the years, some of the best chefs in Los Angeles learned their craft while working with McCarty in his kitchen, Mark Peel (Campanile and Tar Pit), Nancy Silverton (Spago, Campanile, La Brea Bakery), and Roy Yamaguchi (Roy’s) to name a few.

November 10 is the next “Market Meet-up”,  where guests have the opportunity to walk with Michael through the Santa Monica Farmer’s market and return to the restaurant for a lively chat, cooking demonstration, light lunch, and wine pairing.  Cost is $60 per person and includes a copy of McCarty’s latest book, “Welcome to Michael’s: Great Food, Great People, Great Party!” For information and  reservations, call (310)451-0843. 1147 Third Street, Santa Monica. www.michaelssantamonica.com