The ambiance is straight-up classic steakhouse, with shiny hardwood floors, a fully stocked bar, crisp white table linens and no-nonsense service. Get a seat near the front and you’re view of the posh Canon Drive scene will entertain all night. Tuck yourself away in the back of the house for a lower profile experience.

It’s easy to know what to order here, after all the signature food is written into the restaurant’s title. I recently tried the ribeye, a gorgeous cut that filled my plate and necessitated a to-go box. Perfect marbling makes this steak a juicy, tender offering, and Wolfgang’s prepares it with the utmost care. Ask for rare and you’ll get rare, not, like at many steakhouses a medium rare stand-in. Picking a side dish for this monstrous piece of meat is easy – go with something green. I opted for the steamed asparagus, hefty spears of the fresh vegetable that complemented the rib eye perfectly. Creamed spinach or sauteed broccoli would have done the trick too, but the asparagus is particularly eye-catching. Potatoes come four ways, mashed, steak fried, German or baked, so there’s no mystery on that front. Of course, the Porterhouse for one, two, four or more is recommended if you’re out with a group – Zwiener takes great pride in his Porterhouse.

He uses only prime meat, mostly from the Midwest, and ages the meat in his coolers under specific temperature and humidity controls.

Those not up for steak can choose from a simple but scrumptious array of seafood, including jumbo lobster, grilled yellow fin tuna, salmon or swordfish. If you’re up for a starter course, though the steaks are so big you might not need one, there’s an out-of-this-world crab cake, little neck clams on the half shell, lobster cocktail and jumbo shrimp cocktail. There aren’t many surprises on the menu and that’s the way most steakhouse regulars like it. For dessert, the ice cream sundae is a throwback to old ice cream parlor offerings, served in a soda shop style glass and topped with a generous helping of whipped cream swirled beneath a single cherry.

The bottom line here is the quality of the steaks, top-notch cuts that attract a slew of repeat customers. It’s no wonder the place is so good: Zwiener has been in the steakhouse business for more than 40 years and his experience shows in every detail.

Open at noon every day except Sunday, when the opening time is 5:00pm, Wolfgang’s is not just a dinner spot but also a popular lunch place. Steaks, chops and seafood are all offered on the midday menu, dishes that give whole new meaning to the term “power lunch”.

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse, 445 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills. Call (310)385-0640.